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 Post subject: 2005 Duramax Turbo issue
PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 6:44 pm 
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Location: Cooksville, MD
OR Year: 2010
OR Model: 399BHS
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I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado w/Duramax diesel. Recently the check engine light came on. My scanner showed a code 46 - Turbo Boost Performance ....

I ordered a new Turbo Vane Position Sensor off of Ebay (was about $75) and I removed the Turbo Vane Solenoid and it appears to be OK (I did order one from Amazon for $125 although now I don't think that is the issue). Truck runs fine otherwise - I cleared the codes and the P0046 returns (illuminates the check engine light after the second start).

I only have 94K on the truck and mostly use it for towing. Hoping the Turbo Vanes are not frozen (I would think it would run bad if that was the case). Anyone replace a Turbo Vane Position Sensor?

My concern is that the one I purchased comes with some sort of adapter to allow it to connect to my LLY wiring harness (thinking it might be a generic sensor). The OEM ones are several hundred dollars. I will see if mine is stuck or if there are signs of mice eating the wiring. New one should be here on Friday.

My research indicates that Turbos are really pretty simple devices and typically don't go bad (unless they run out of oil). They seem to fail due to rust and soot buildup - cleaning seems to fix most of them (but you have to take them out and disassemble them to clean them correctly). Not sure if I have the reach to get those 12 year old exhaust bolts out ;)

Hoping it is just the sensor.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 7:45 pm 
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Location: Denver, Colorado
OR Year: 2014
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I hate to say it but I think your turbo is stuck.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 9:19 pm 
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Just started getting codes ... any way to unstick it?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 7:25 am 
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If you got a sensor for less than $100 I think you got the wrong one. Even shopping around you aren't likely to find the correct one for less than $300+
I replaced mine a few years ago, if I recall Garrett is the only one that makes it and no matter what branding is on it you are getting the garrett part.

The only way to confirm correct operation of the sensor is to pull the "desired vane position" and "actual vane position" from the computer. This should tell you if the computer is not seeing the positioning it is asking for. If the position doesn't change based on the desired setting its likely the vane position control rather than the sensor.

Mine had several other codes (that I don't recall) but one was related to a short to ground which was the actual problem since the sensor wiring had rubbed through.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 7:37 am 
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bigdisneydaddy wrote:
If you got a sensor for less than $100 I think you got the wrong one. Even shopping around you aren't likely to find the correct one for less than $300+
I replaced mine a few years ago, if I recall Garrett is the only one that makes it and no matter what branding is on it you are getting the garrett part.

The only way to confirm correct operation of the sensor is to pull the "desired vane position" and "actual vane position" from the computer. This should tell you if the computer is not seeing the positioning it is asking for. If the position doesn't change based on the desired setting its likely the vane position control rather than the sensor.

Mine had several other codes (that I don't recall) but one was related to a short to ground which was the actual problem since the sensor wiring had rubbed through.


I will check the wiring - I do have mice in my garage .... :) I will also check the alternator bracket - I placed a piece of plastic over it but noticed it has moved allowing for potential rub-through of that harness ... times to remove the tape and inspect, then get some heater hose ....

I believe that people are selling a newer sensor (different harness connector) with an adapter to allow it to work with the LLY. Garrett was bought out by Honeywell. I saw a lot of sensors recently that stated they work with the LLY as long as one uses a harness adapter (included with my purchase) .... I think the prices have dropped drastically the last few months from what I have seen.

I have EFILive so I will monitor the PIDS for desired versus actual vane position to see what is happening. I did a cross-country towing trip this summer (5600 miles) and had no issues, so whatever happened is very recent. The error pops up when I am going 50km (~35mph) and am at 680 rpm (according to the freeze frames from my EFILive keypad). I need to reflash my EFILive keypad and update the software since I have not used it since 2015 .... noticed the PIDS for the LLY don't show up on it - time to pull out the laptop and log.

I did order the Vane position Solenoid (actually the Chinese Dorman knockoff one ...) I already pulled the OEM one and looked at it - it was actually pretty clean and did not appear to be sticking. I only run Synthetic oil and change it every 3K ... I believe it uses oil pressure to move the vanes.

I am preparing for the possibility that the vane sensor ring is frozen (or the vanes are frozen) - that would require removal and cleaning of the Turbo .... I wonder if George still works on Duramax engines (in PA)?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 10:56 am 
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If youre running synthetic and changing it at 3k you are throwing money away. My last analysis on Mobil TDT 5W40 was at 12k with lots of towing on that change and it came back as serviceable, even organic oil (Delvac 1300) Is more than adequate to 10k.


When mine had the short in the wire I could not find it until I pulled the sensor and went over it very closely. The wire was not repairable. It did kick 4 codes and actually put the truck into a different fuel mapping which was a PITA since I was towing at the time.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 11:53 am 
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Bigdisneydaddy - I agree about the oil changes .... since I am only putting about 8K a year on it, that is 2 or 3 a year ....

Appreciate the advice on looking at the wire - I will pull it and take a look. Given how it lays on top of parts of the engine with no clips or ties, would not surprise me if there is a problem with it.

I'll let you know what ends up happening with respect to the Ebay Sensor .... there are quite a few sites selling the same 'kit' with the sensor/module/clip and the LLY adapter plus some heat-resistant tape (probably to protect the adapter piece).

I'll do some driving with EFILive before to chart what is happening, then change the sensor and repeat.

BTW it is getting great mileage on this tank full of diesel ....

There are other codes that I pulled with Carista, but EFILive only gives me the P0046 (for the time being ....)

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 7:26 pm 
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Consider cleaning it, some have used easy off oven cleaner, some have used other products. It looks straight forward, go thru hot side of turbo, there are some videos on how to. Your 05 has had that issue. Is your engine LB7 or LLY?

I think with 3-4 hours of work you could do it, that's my pace, you might be only 2 hours. Also they make Mr. Muscle turbo cleaner spray.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 7:32 pm 
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Ok bud this is the best video I have seen, explains where and each step.

Tells what rpms to run.

https://reviveturbocleaner.com/index.ph ... rol#diesel


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 8:41 pm 
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I have an LLY .... saw a video on cleaning the turbo by removing it ....

Revive looks interesting - curious if any Duramax owners have actually unfrozen stuck vanes or disk plates with it?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 8:00 am 
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Interesting

Mine has 147k on it now but the EGR has been blocked since it was almost new.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 8:33 am 
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I blocked my EGR by not enabling it with EFILive back in 2006 or 2007. Not the same as a blocker plate ...

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 8:31 pm 
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ColoradoRv wrote:
I hate to say it but I think your turbo is stuck.

You are correct

I replaced the solenoid and sensor $125 + $75 - so for $200 I learned a lot about how a turbo with variable vanes operates.

Now I need to find a mechanic that has experience working with turbos on diesels - in MD

Still getting the P0046 code - neither part looked bad.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 9:18 am 
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I know this is for a Dodge but if we change the actuator on our actuator out the positions have to be relearned. Could it possibly be similar to the Dmax??

Chris

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 10:33 am 
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drtnsnw wrote:
I know this is for a Dodge but if we change the actuator on our actuator out the positions have to be relearned. Could it possibly be similar to the Dmax??

Chris

Maybe .... thought it would learn after unhooking batteries for a while, but there is conflicting info on this. Might see if I can have it diagnosed/relearned ....

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 11:12 am 
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Are you sure it's the turbo itself? I believe that code could also apply to a boost leak, in which case I'd inspect all the boost hoses for cracks or loose clamps. Those are a lot cheaper than pulling a turbo.

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