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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:20 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 11:46 pm
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Location: Central Coast of CA
OR Year: 2015
OR Model: 337RLS
Member ID: ORF-5907
The bottom fridge door hinge broke yesterday, on our rig. Tried JB Weld, to no avail. thought of adding a metal piece to support it so I went online to see if others had done it.

Seems that is the only REAL solution, since Norcold does not make anything stronger than the crappy plastic hinge. Does anyone know of a ready made piece for this repair? If not I will make my own when I get home.

The piece I have seen is semi triangular with a hole that lines up with the hinge pin, and 2 other holes in a piece that goes along the door bottom, and screws go into the door to add some strength.

Anyone else had to do this?

I have no desire to change out the fridge nor any desire for a residential unit.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 9:13 am 
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Location: Spring/Houston, TX area
OR Year: 2017
OR Model: LF318
Member ID: ORF-0756
Try this

Door hinge retrofit kit. Norcold PN 634166.
$29-32.00

Some have made aluminum plate/bracket to beef it up.

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Amy & Mickey Cotham
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 9:55 am 
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Thanks for the link. Kinda interesting that Norcold builds a cheap hinge, then charges for a plastic retrofit kit to fix the plastic hinge.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 12:13 pm 
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Location: B.C.
OR Year: 2015
OR Model: 340FLR
Member ID: ORF-5338
My lower hinge broke the first year we had our trailer.
I bought a 2 inch by 2 foot piece of aluminum and matched the end to mirror the hinge . Drilled holes through every 8 inches and a hole for the pin. screwed the piece to the bottom of the door and reinstalled the door. no problem since.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 7:11 pm 
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Yea I need to do similar here. Tried to find metal but nothing is open in Williams AZ on Sunday :(

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 8:31 am 
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Location: Compass PA
OR Year: 2011
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KWP6MC/_e ... ZK4NVWIBAO

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 9:08 am 
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Thats the same thing Cothamm posted. It looks like plastic also.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 9:42 am 
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I don't own one, but I checked out the reviews and this one indicates it is metal.

$26 for this kit or $300 for a new door. And then the new door would still need to have the Hinge Retrofit Kit! This is a no brainer. It is a sad commentary on Norcold and their products that they won't fix this known problem at the point of manufacture. So, you get two metal hinges in this kit and they are are super easy to install. It literally took five minutes to remove the refrigerator door (remove on screw), install the top and bottom hinges (they just slide into place) and put the door back on. For $26, don't wait any longer to do this. While we shouldn't have to do it, It is cheap insurance!

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 10:42 am 
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No I won't put a new door in. I can build a bracket myself from aluminum. It's exactly the same thing, in the end, I will have. Thanks for the link. I know I initially asked for exactly what you provided and I thank you, but have decided I will do my own. I would have done it yesterday, but the hardware store here in Williams AZ was closed on Sunday.

I will make it serviceable here, to get us home, and build a proper one when we get home. I looked this issue up on youtube and there are lots of ideas folks used.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 8:26 pm 
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OK got the metal in town for $11.99 for a 2"x48"x1/8" aluminum flat bar. Cut a 5" piece off and drilled it to accept the pin and drilled and counter sunk for 2 screws to hold it to the door. We now have an operating refrigerator door again. Yippee!

For now, I just left the metal piece rectangular and no paint. This is to get us home where I can take my time on it.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 1:32 am 
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OK got home yesterday, and altered the patch piece to fit the contours of the door and made a new plate for the upper to match. Now both hinges are metal reinforced, like they should have been from the factory. I painted both flat black so they are not even noticeable unless you are looking for it.

If anyone is interested, I will post a pic of the final part.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 9:02 am 
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Location: Spring/Houston, TX area
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Yea, pic please.
I could “hand machine” similar part, throw in kitchen “junk drawer” as my DW says, have as back up.
Wife puts lots stuff in shelves in frig door. I have to rearrange to see heaviest items closer to hinge side of door, not way out from fulcrum point.

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Cheers, and Laissez les bon temps rouler
Amy & Mickey Cotham
Retired Oil Field La. Cajun
2017 LF318 Light, w/modifications, TST 510 TPMS
2011 F-250 Diesel, 45 gal Aux Fuel Tank w/transfer SOV


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 11:09 am 
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I use my HS&V machining tool. Hack saw and vice!!!

My recommendation is if you make one, install it BEFORE it breaks, especially the bottom one since it is supporting the weight. I will post a pic in a little bit, have to take one first :). It basically is an L shape but smoothed to TRY and match the shape of the door and hinge.

For those that cannot make them I WOULD recommend buying the part referred to above and installing it. It's aggravating that Norcold makes junk and then makes more money on a part that SHOULD have been on there in the first place.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 12:42 pm 
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OK got some pics. One thing that doesn't show, is for some reason I had to add a nylon washer at the bottom to keep it from rubbing the metal hinge part that the pivot pin is part of. It's about 1/16" or less but it works.

This is the top hinge bracket I made. I countersunk the screw holes to prevent issues like scratching hands or appliances.

Attachment:
fridge hinge1.jpg


Attachment:
fridge hinge2.jpg


This is the bottom hinge. Sorry hard to see it, but you can see the line of it. Looks just like the top one only in reverse. I anchored them with 1 1/2" sheet metal screws. Use what ever suits you.

Attachment:
fridge hinge3.jpg


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 12:51 pm 
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The bottom hinge had broken completely off. I tried JB Weld but it didn't hold. Probably because we couldn't leave it unused for 24hr to fully cure. We had to get food out of the fridge.

In the last pic you can see where I plastic welded the edges. I cleaned off the old JB Weld and put on new, then plastic welded.

I recommend doing SOMETHING like this BEFORE they break, because it's harder to get the metal bracket properly aligned without the hinge pin hole to reference. You CAN if you use the top as a reference (I didn't think of that at the time) but remember to reverse it when you drill the counter sink holes.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 8:54 pm 
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Nice job!


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