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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 9:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 20, 2017 12:46 am
Posts: 83
OR Year: 2017
OR Model: 337rls
Member ID: ORF-11736
Water intrusion?
Poor maintenance?
Factory rolled verses vacuum?
Trailer vibration?

What's the #one reason and is it preventable?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 6:30 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2011 8:26 pm
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Location: Howard County,MD
OR Year: 2012
OR Model: 399BHS
Member ID: ORF-0621
Delamination caused by some form of water intrusion. Diligent maintenance inspection and caulking are your best preventative measures. If unit is assembled correctly and caulked properly you should not have any issues.
However units are not always assembled or maintained properly.
As long as you do regular inspections delamination is nothing to fear

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 9:25 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 02, 2012 6:17 pm
Posts: 1550
Location: Compass PA
OR Year: 2011
OR Model: RF316RLS
Member ID: ORF-1745
extra care should be taken at the following points:

Note, my first 2 winters (and warranty period) my RV was stored in a warehouse from October through April all damage appeard during first winter stored outdoors

1) front and rear where roof ends and fiberglass begins. there is a strip across top screwed in than globs of caulk added. I would recommend cleaning this than installing eternalbond tape on both front and rear. (see rain gutters below).

2) Marker lights. they have a hole behind them for wire. mine were never sealed to RV.

3) Roof Edges. along the edge of roof is a aluminum strip with screws every couple inches. pull 1 screw, I bet you find its rusty. these screws need to be sealed. mine were not.

4) Gutter downspouts. Front is worse but my rear also has shown every 6 months maintainance is too long to wait. Where the downspout is mounted there is aluminum, fiberglass, rubber and plastic all coming together. on the leading edge of front. looking into this crack, it appers there is no meterial behind it accept a piece of wood that is top of wall frame? (you can't see this in pictures).
Image I don't have great pictures of the delamation to show.
My next fix attempt will be to remove all the sealant, remove gutter extension, hopefully lift aluminum enough to get eternalbond underneath. This same piece of eternalbond will go up, across front roof strip, then down to other gutter extension with one piece of eternalbond (hopefully).

5) Top of slides, there is eternalbond tape to seal slide roof to outer edge of slide. I can see on both corners of all slides that the eternalbond is starting to wear through from rubbing when you open and close slides. when slides are closed this is not exposed. I will be fixing this when we open camper this year.

5) body moldings. any place you have body molding, it can leak.

a) the molding on bottom of slides, on side edge. This was installed up to high, and water would run over molding, than soaked into plywood floor that made slide bottom, which would rot out slide floor. This molding was not sealed, and used double sided tape for gasket. This was redesigned around 2014 to a molding that is an L shape to force water to run around corner and drip off. I caught this one in time before damage was done

c) molding where fiberglass side ends, and metal skirting begins. This is another piece stuck on with double sided tape. mine leaked water into basement, the electrical connector for DS slide was sitting just right that it filled up with water and corroded. It got hot enough that it burnt a hole through bottle of RV coreplast (I could smell the smoke, that is how I discovered it). I removed connector and replaced it with water proof box. I had to seal all this molding with a bead of ProFlexRV

d) Molding along edge where front side fiberglass connects to bottom materiel at front overhang. This did not have a sealant bead on it and water got in causing delamanation. This molding was redesigned around 2014. ProflexRV was used to prevent further damage from what is shown below
Image

Of course don't forget the recall to remove and seal the screw on face of slideout. (I sealed all the screws)

one other thing I found. in Drivers side slide, look underneath all the way at front corners on outside edge of slide box. there was a little crack in some aluminum framing. Carpenter ants found this hole, moved into warm wall (warmed by refrigerator) and setup camp. I discovered this because I was seeing carpenter aints inside. they would appear round front and rear carpet when I opened slide. I assumed they were walking in under gasket to so I spryed carpet. next trip to camper, open slide and there was like 100 dead ants. I found this hole and sealed it: and problem went away.

As Lantley said "Diligent maintenance inspection and caulking are your best preventative measures."
But as I discovered every spring and fall is not soon enough. I feel most of my problem is do to the RV not being sealed 100% at factory.
Our Open Range is our 4th 5th wheel bought new. This is the only RV I have had this kind of problem with. one thing I do notice is all the other RV's I have owned were sealed with butyl putty. and my new Arctic Fox pickup camper is also sealed with butyl putty, then dealer over sealed everything with Proflex RV.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 9:46 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 8:51 am
Posts: 756
Location: Michigan
OR Year: 2012
OR Model: JT340FLR
Member ID: ORF-1880
Mostly from water intrusion (a large percentage of the screws I removed on our trailer had sign of water intrusion) but also related to glue problems. OR/Highland ridge told us during our last factory tour 18 months ago, that they had changed their process during building of the sidewalls in order to control the temp and humidity that the units were exposed to during the gluing process. I don't think they would have spent the $$$ for a new building and new processes if they hadn't had issues with adhesion.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 9:25 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 02, 2012 6:17 pm
Posts: 1550
Location: Compass PA
OR Year: 2011
OR Model: RF316RLS
Member ID: ORF-1745
big daddy I agree there is something else as well. I have owned several other new campers through the years and never had this kind of problem. Most are kept 5-7 years. And all of the campers have had the same maintenance crew working on them.

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* 2016 Artic Fox 990 Truck Camper.
* 2011 RF316RLS
* 2015 Ram 3500 Cummins, Aisin, Dually 4:10 4wd.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 9:35 pm 
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Posts: 44
OR Year: 2015
OR Model: LFBHT305
Member ID: ORF-5771
My 2015 went back for Delamination, they had my 5 th. wheel 5 months they took both side walls apart, doors, windows and outside storage doors and have me new walls and substrate. To me that says water damage and if that's the case it's poor workmanship. Keep in mind this was brand new to me I used it twice and it went back.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 11:17 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2017 12:09 pm
Posts: 8
OR Year: 2012
OR Model: 337RLS
Member ID: ORF-13322
Just found this post and all I can say to all of you is thank you, thank you, thank you! Bought our '12 rf337rls used, it's our 1st. rv and we sure are learning a lot. I'll be recaulking pretty much every where and using the externabond as well. I think I'll be able to fix our problems before they cause any more serious problems.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 11:47 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 8:51 am
Posts: 756
Location: Michigan
OR Year: 2012
OR Model: JT340FLR
Member ID: ORF-1880
All these discussion make me wonder how sealant technology has thus far escaped the RV industry ? There should be no reason to have to caulk external joints (which are exposed to weather and crack easily) if the lap joint between the 2 surfaces is sealed properly. Its not like this construction method and materials are anything new, heck they have been building RV's the same way for a very long time. It just strikes me that the industry as a whole is really falling down on this.

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2012 JT340FLR towed with a Reese dual cam setup. (sold October 17)

2005 2500 HD Silverado LLY Duramax (with a few tweaks)

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 9:05 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 02, 2012 6:17 pm
Posts: 1550
Location: Compass PA
OR Year: 2011
OR Model: RF316RLS
Member ID: ORF-1745
this fall I found all my joints on all 4 corners the sealant cracked and had opened up again and were full of water again.
Fixed in May, all cracked again by September.

The worse was the back corners. I took it all apart to remove all the old caulking.
There is a metal corner bead on that goes around the corner edge from roof to back wall. this is the actual corner strip you see on the rear corners.
Than they put on the rubber roof,, than the roof side edge/rain gutter that holds down the roof.
But this rain gutter metal is too long, so they just let it overlap the rear corner bead metal.
than they pull this rain gutter out even more so they can stick the plastic water spout under it, than caulk the hell out of it with roof caulk.
The problem is this caulk cracks. I assume its because you got PVC roof, metal corner bead, metal roof edge, fiberglass body and plastic rain gutter. this all expand and contract at different rates in the heat.
plus it appears the fiberglass does not really go all the way to the top edge, it stops short to under this joint appears to be unfinished wood.
so when this above mess opens up, you got water direct exposed to what I guess is 1/4" lauan plywood, which acts like a sponge and sucks the water in, under the fiberglass.. it breaks down the bond between fiberglass and plywood, than plywood expands from soaking up water and you got a mess.
click here to see large picture
Image
black area above and to right of screw I removed is raw / wet plywood, fiberglass does not go complete to edge of wall.
see back corner where rain gutter and drip edge overlap rear corner bead. all I had to do was nip off a little corner of the rain gutter to get it to sit flush against trailer body, than also nip edge of plastic spout so its not sitting on top of corner bead.

This time I sealed it all with Geoceal. I inspected it this weekend and it still appears to be sealed water tight. lets seem what I find next spring.

but at any rate, I now own an Open Range with $0 value, that I still own 8 years payments on.
I talked to "the new open range" and they offered to help me, than sent me an estimate for $28,000 to fix it.
that is $28,000 to fix a rig that shows book value of $20,000 if sold be dealer.
was it lack of maintenance? I have resealed this every 6 months, so you tell me.
or is it bad design? or is it bad assembly?

Its not vibration, because mine has made 1 trip to the outerbanks (9 hours one way). We towed home in a rain storm, we stopped at a rest area and went into camper to use bathroom. Water was running in under the drivers side slide and out under the passenger side slide. we had 6 large beach towels that we were "wringing the water out of them" as we tried to try the carpet. everything was soaked. A quick inspection shows there is nothing to stop the rain water from the tires from getting sprayed all up and under the slides. There was a rubber seal under the slide that got caught inside the rollers and was torn up, but dealer said "open range don't use them anymore, so the will not authorize us to fix yours" (that was the same trip they said they could not feel the soft floor between bed and dresser that now I think is ready to let my foot fall through)

So after that we just sort of parked it in our Private campground my brother and I own. I think 2x now I have brought it home for the winter to get it inspected. since I got it, I think I have pulled it 700 miles total.

We actually went out and bought another RV for our OBX trips. Now I just try to keep this one from rotting out so bad we can't use it, at least until its paid for. one thing I can say (knock in wood) is after I spend around 24 total hours of sealing under body including installing 1/4" mess screen under the propane openings, I have been able to keep the mice out.

OH, we almost list the camper a couple years ago. The finishing trim on outside that is glued on where fiberglass slides end and metal skirting starts, only 1/2 of mine was sealed. water got into the basement back around the rear of DR slide. laying in this water was the 120V connector they use when installing the slide. water got into this connector and corroded it. one day I was sitting there and could smell plastic burning. I looked around and actually found this connector had burnt a hole through the coraplast and you could see actual flames. I pulled the AC cord and the fire stopped. if I had not been there RV would have burnt to ground.

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* 2016 Artic Fox 990 Truck Camper.
* 2011 RF316RLS
* 2015 Ram 3500 Cummins, Aisin, Dually 4:10 4wd.


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