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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 8:22 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2013 10:54 pm
Posts: 75
Location: Oak Creek, WI
OR Year: 2018
OR Model: 347RES
Member ID: ORF-3593
We picked up our 347RES on Monday. Brought it home with the old hitch (Reese). The photos are with the Reese in place. At the angle shown there is still clearance to the cab for additional turning. But the second picture shows the amount of tire twist at that amount of turn. I'm not comfortable with that much tire twisting. I take a pull thru spot whenever I can but sometimes you can only get a back in (this year's CHR). So I really don't like to turn that hard. My measurements seem to indicate that the Andersen will actually be a little farther back than the Reese is.

I use my truck for a lot of other things and lifting the ISR adapter and the hitch in and out is getting to be a royal pain. I suppose if I ever hit the cab I'll wish I had gone with a slider. I could get past the cost, but I just can't get past the weight.

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Cab clearance.jpg


Attachment:
Tire twist.jpg


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2015 Silverado 3500HD SRW CCSB 4WD Duramax
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 8:31 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2013 2:07 pm
Posts: 6546
Location: Nazareth, PA
OR Year: 2014
OR Model: 427BHS
Member ID: ORF-3771
You're always going to have that regardless of hitch. I have a triple axle and it's mind-boggling to see them twisting back there. Just nature of the beast. I did ding my cab. Got a slider installed the very next week. Haven't regretted it for a single moment.

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2014 Open Range 427BHS
2011 Ford F-350 Crew Cab 6.7L Powerstroke Diesel
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 8:49 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2011 3:26 pm
Posts: 1262
Location: Cooksville, MD
OR Year: 2010
OR Model: 399BHS
Member ID: ORF-0001
Looking at your first picture, the frame of your pin box looks like it could hit your bed rails very easily given a slight incline of the camper/truck. I did that once .... scraped the line-x - got it repaired with a new coat of line-x. That might be a more determining factor in how far you can turn. I have a long-bed so my hitch is further back (don't need to worry about dinging the cab with the camper), but the pinbox and camper framing do come close to the bedrails on a tight turn (and may hit if the truck and/or trailer are at a certain incline (ie: dip in the road - when backing up.)) Some people have cut the corners off of the framing that connects to the pin box, giving a little more safety margin.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 10:54 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2015 9:09 pm
Posts: 690
Location: Portland, OR
OR Year: 2015
OR Model: RF316RLS
Member ID: ORF-6313
Isn't that twist amazing. Your path is clearly visible on the pavement.
Probably the number one reason for tread wear on these rigs.

I have even considered wetting down the pavement before backing into
my tight back-in spot at home to relieve some of that tension.

My frame cracks at the fresh water tank braces keep getting worse.
I really need to add some cross braces (as Lippert should have done.)

John

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 12:08 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 22, 2013 12:10 pm
Posts: 130
Location: Plano, TX
OR Year: 2016
OR Model: 337RLS
Member ID: ORF-3714
All very familiar and why I traded my Curt Q20 for an Andersen. I use my truck bed A LOT. Even with the 5th wheel bed prep and hitch, while making the install and removal easy, the dang weight of dealing with that hitch frame every time I wanted to use the camper was dreadful. I can lift the Andersen in bed with one arm and attaching to the gooseneck ball is very quick and lays on a shelf in my garage when not in use. Because I have a short bed truck, I am unable to use the full offset capability of the Andersen so had to rotate the coupler block forward. If I rotate it to the rear, the pin box sits too far back and makes contact with the tailgate. Your bed may be slightly longer than the Ram and may work. It is easy to check once you are hitched up and to make the necessary change. I have had no clearance issues. Backing in to my storage unit requires a very sharp turn with elevation changes. It's close but no contact. While they provide the most clearance in turns, due to the weight, an auto slider hitch was not an option for me.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 6:31 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:59 pm
Posts: 4739
Location: West Monroe LoUiSiAna hometown of Duck Dynasty
OR Year: 2009
OR Model: JF335BHS
Member ID: ORF-0013
jfmjr wrote:
Isn't that twist amazing. Your path is clearly visible on the pavement.
Probably the number one reason for tread wear on these rigs.

I have even considered wetting down the pavement before backing into
my tight back-in spot at home to relieve some of that tension.

My frame cracks at the fresh water tank braces keep getting worse.
I really need to add some cross braces (as Lippert should have done.)

John


You may have already seen this repair bulletin from Lippert
but maybe not so here it is again for those that may have missed it.

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/j ... 6-1111.pdf

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 10:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2015 9:09 pm
Posts: 690
Location: Portland, OR
OR Year: 2015
OR Model: RF316RLS
Member ID: ORF-6313
Thanks for the post Bill, I had seen a similar document, but not that one.
I had contacted OR and they contacted Lippert and they agreed to pay to have some work done.
I decided against pursuing their proposed solution as it required three rectangular tubes to be
welded side to side and this would interfere with removing underbelly and access to tanks.
I think I remember you getting a fix that included two welded and one bolted in brace?

I will add a couple of bolt-in cross braces that resist the twist on the frame. (Asking the tires to yet be more complaint.)
It should address the problem and be removable when I need to do major work under there.

John

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